FAQs products

LIGNOLOC® wooden nails are currently available in lengths of 38, 50, 55 and 60 mm and a diameter of 3.7 mm. Wooden nails with diameter 4,7 mm and 5,3 are currently available in length of 65, 75 and 90 mm.

In principle, yes. As described in Eurocode 5, table 8.2, attention must be paid to the density of the wood type when fastening wood using pin-shaped connectors. Only woods with a density less than 500 kg/m³ may be nailed without pre-drilling.

Yes. We recommend use of the FASCO® F44 LIGNOLOC®, a tool designed specifically to meet the requirements of the wooden nail. The larger opening in the feed mechanism and the guide flaps are important for a perfect shooting result.

The projecting end can simply be knocked off from the side with a hammer. LIGNOLOC® nails will always be inserted as deep as the wood structure permits. If you fire the nail into a knot, it is compressed in the same way as a metal nail. If the nail is not driven in completely, it can also be sanded down to achieve the best possible result.

Thanks to the impregnation and subsequent compression of the beechwood, wood-destroying basidiomycetes have no destructive effect on the LINGOLOC® nails. This characteristic has been confirmed in a long-term test conducted for us by the EPH wood technology development and test laboratory in Dresden. Beech is the most suitable type of wood, because it grows particularly straight and has a high density.

According to Eurocode 5, an edge distance of 26 mm and a distance of 55 mm from the end grain should be maintained in the case of woods with a density less than 500 kg/m² and a thickness no less than 26 mm. The spacing between nails should be 100 mm. If several nails are inserted in a row, they should be offset slightly to prevent the wood from splitting.

The primary material for LIGNOLOC® nails has been used for many decades, also in outdoor applications. Numerous examples of this are available.

According to the technical approval, the embedment depth in the head area must correspond to 4 times the nail diameter. As a result, the head draft is sufficiently dimensioned to absorb approved shear loads. A pure load on pulling out or pulling through is not permitted.

On August 28, 2020, the German Institute for Construction Engineering (Deutsches Institut für Bautechnik – DIBt) issued the “National technical approval / general construction technique permit” for “Load-bearing timber connections using LignoLoc® wooden nails”. After extensive tests and complex calculation models, all expectations of the expert committee were met.

The LIGNOLOC® wooden nail can be permanently loaded when sheared - as regulated in the approval.

For item 3.7 x 60 mm, roughly one trunk is required for 1,000,000 LIGNOLOC® nails.

Basically yes. When being driven in, other factors are more important (e.g. nail diameter, speed, ...). The material of the nail (steel, aluminum, wood, plastic, etc.) itself plays a minor role here.

No. If a LIGNOLOC® nail is set incorrectly, it can be processed without any problems (sawing, milling, drilling, grinding).

Where the steel nail bends, the wooden nail breaks. If a LIGNOLOC® nail should crush during processing, the parts, which stick in the wood, can be removed using woodworking tools (saw, drill, chisel).

The compressed beech wood is significantly more expensive than steel wire, which is used for the manufacture of steel nails. This fact as well as the highly specific and controlled production process for LIGNOLOC® nails lead to significantly higher costs and thus to higher prices.

The plastic sheet is state of the art and provides the opportunity of processing LIGNOLOC® without leaving any residue or waste. The plastic sheet can easily be recycled.

Yes. LIGNOLOC® can be driven in with a hammer. It should be noted that manually driven LIGNOLOC® nails do not have the same withdrawal values as LIGNOLOC® driven by a pneumatic nailer. When driven in manually, the heat and friction required for lignin adhesion are not generated due to a too low speed.

No. The LIGNOLOC® nail itself is water-resistant. However, since the connection is created by components of the surrounding wood itself, its strength is reduced with increasing moisture.

Slight fluctuations in wood moisture, as is common with timber components of service class 1 and service class 2, have no adverse effects. Strongly fluctuating wood moisture levels can reduce the strength of the connection and should be avoided.

According to the current status, the following wood-based panels can be processed: OSB, MDF, plywood, solid wood panels, but also gypsum fiber panels (also in this case welding occurs, although it’s not a wood-based material) can be processed with LIGNOLOC®.

Depending on the nail dimension and the metal fastener to be compared, CO2 emissions can be up to 75% lower.

In contrast to an ordinary steel nail, there is no nail head on LIGNOLOC® wooden nails which could hold the panel in place, but the contact area between the nail shank and the wood/material does. Accordingly, the LIGNOLOC® nail fastens a thick panel much better than a thinner panel. We recommend 15 mm as the minimum panel thickness.

LIGNOLOC® nails barely react to most corrosive and acidic materials. This means that our wooden nails for instance are suitable for use in sauna areas or salt deposits.

Pre-drilling should only be necessary in exceptional cases such as with very short edge distances or with certain wood characteristics (strong twisted growth, density above 600 kg/m³). Pre-drilling should be done with a drill that corresponds to approx. 0.7 times the diameter of the nail.

On August 28, 2020, the German Institute for Construction Engineering (Deutsches Institut für Bautechnik – DIBt) issued the “National technical approval / general construction technique permit” for “Load-bearing timber connections using LignoLoc® wooden nails”. The European approval has already been applied and is in progress.

Applications that are permanently exposed to withdrawal forces e.g. suspended ceiling elements need a separate approval. The LIGNOLOC® nail does not have this approval yet. Furthermore a permanent connection cannot be achieved when used in green wood or construction wood with a high moisture content.

It always should be acted in accordance with current standards (e.g. DIN EN 1995-1-1 "Eurocode 5") and/or recognized rules of technology.

LIGNOLOC® with head can be used as a substitute for façade screws. Horizontal and vertical cladding made of softwood can be fastened to wooden substructures with LIGNOLOC®.

As with metallic nails, damage to the LIGNOLOC® nail can occur if, for example, a very hard spot in the substructure is hit.

After removing the damaged nail and wood fiber residues, it is possible to pre-drill in the same place and insert a new nail with a hammer. However, the durability of this repair does not correspond to a shot LIGNOLOC®.

BECK offers a specialized setting tool in its FASCO® tool line for processing the nail. This tool has been optimized for error-free processing of the nails. Older models of the F60 series can be adapted for the processing of the LIGNOLOC® with head with a conversion kit from FASCO®.

The F60 nailer should be set by adjusting the air pressure and depth of the tool and by performing test shots on an inconspicuous area of the façade or on a mockup of the materials used. If this setting is maintained and the user applies uniform pressure to the façade, a uniform driving depth can be achieved. Large variations in wood density within the materials to be applied can lead to fluctuations which must be compensated for by readjustment.

In rare cases, slight splintering of the nail head may happen. These splinters do not affect the durability of the nail.

The word SCRAIL® is derived from the English terms screw and nail because SCRAIL® nail screws combine the advantages of both fasteners: quick processing, maximum holding power and full flexibility.

The main difference is that screws are screwed in, while SCRAIL® are shot. This results in an enormous time advantage.

The holding power of a SCRAIL® is around 80 % of that of a screw.

SCRAIL® can be used for most applications in which screws are usually utilized, such as terrace construction, facades, subfloors, garden furniture, fences, metal roofs and much more.

Yes, because SCRAIL® are also available in stainless steel quality A2 or A4.

No, hot-dip galvanizing is not possible, as the thread and the bit drive would otherwise stick. As an alternative that is at least equivalent, we offer our FasCoat® coating for all outdoor applications, except in environments containing chlorine or salt.

Clearly in the time advantage. SCRAIL® can be processed 8 times faster than bulk screws.

Yes, as most SCRAIL® are available with CE approval.

Yes, all common drive types such as Torx®, Phillips®, Pozi® or square are available for SCRAIL®.

SCRAIL® can be collated as plastic strips, coils in plastic strips, wire coils or plastic coils.

There are different thread types available, because different requirements often require different thread types. There are SCRAIL® with fine thread for best withdrawal values or SCRAIL® with coarse thread for optimal removability. There are also special SCRAIL® for light metal construction, decking or subfloors.

Most SCRAIL® can be processed with conventional pneumatic nailers, except for SCRAIL® ROOFLOC®, which can only be processed with the FASCO® ROOFLOC® tool.

No, it is normal for a certain amount of sparking to occur when the fastener is driven through the driver. This is due to the metal-to-metal contact between the nail and the driver and is particularly noticeable with new tools. Sparking generally diminishes with continued use, but the basic possibility remains.

Two to three drops of oil per day are usually sufficient. If the tool is used at a very high speed for a long time, add two or three additional drops for the second half of the day. Excessive oiling will not damage the machine, but can lead to stoppages due to clogged parts.

If the release valve only leaks when the trigger is actuated, the cause may be an internal leak in the pressure valve piston or the release valve. The parts responsible for this symptom are listed below in order of frequency:
1. o-ring on the release bolt
2. o-ring on the outer diameter of the pressure valve piston
3. pressure valve piston
4. cylinder cap assembly

The parts responsible for air leaks from the outlet are listed below in order of frequency:
1. o-ring on the inside diameter of the discharge valve piston
2. o-ring on the outer diameter of the discharge valve piston
3. lower O-ring of the valve piston (cylinder seal)
4. cap
5. buffer above the valve piston

In most cases, the tool only needs to be overhauled. An overhaul consists of cleaning and applying fresh lubricant as well as installing the appropriate O-rings and the release valve assembly. These measures will significantly improve the working speed and performance of the tool. If an overhaul does not solve the problem, some additional components should be checked:
1. spring on valve piston
2. driver piston assembly - check that the driver is not bent and that it runs smoothly in the guide channel
3. air pressure too low - check the level and performance of the compressor

If the tool bends the nails, this is usually due to a lack of driving force caused by worn O-rings or a lack of lubrication. The best way to remedy low driving force is to clean the inside of the tool, insert the appropriate O-rings and use fresh O-ring lubricant. Other possible causes of nail bending are:
1. driver - as expected, the driver has obvious wear at the tip. If it looks OK, it probably is.
2. driver piston assembly - check to see if the driver threads have loosened in the piston.
3. fasteners -- damaged, wrong sorting angles, wrong fastener for the specific application.
4. air pressure too low

First you need to analyze the symptom. There are two different faults that can have a similar symptom description:
1. the driver is fully extended in the shot channel and does not return upwards unless the air supply is disconnected from the device. Check that the driver is straight and that there are no obstructions in the shot channel.
2. the driver only partially retracts, not enough to allow fasteners to be driven in. This usually indicates stiffness due to a lack of lubricant, worn driver O-rings and stop buffers.  A complete replacement of the respective parts would be the best solution. Individual parts to be considered are:
3. lower O-ring of the cylinder
4. o-ring on the driver piston
5. stop buffer

With collated fasteners, factors such as the sorting angle and spacing of the fasteners can affect the ability of the appliance to feed the fasteners properly. In most cases, however, this is an indication that the appliance is sluggish and most likely needs an overhaul. An overhaul, i.e. a complete cleaning and lubrication as well as the installation of the appropriate O-rings, will eliminate most misfires due to insufficient working speed. Other parts that can cause misfires and are not included with most O-rings are:
1. bump stops
2. slide springs (only for strip nailers and staplers) 
3. slider assemblies (only for strip nailers and staplers)
4. check that the magazine is set correctly. Example: The magazine must be set to the respective nail length (only for coil nailers).
5. feed pawl and springs for the feed pawl (only for coil nailers)

This can vary from tool to tool, depending on the design. In general, such a blockage is caused by a jammed fastener located between the driver and the shot channel.  This creates a lot of tension that needs to be removed. This process has nothing to do with science. Most jams can be fixed by pushing the driver back into the device.  

Safety first -- disconnect the appliance from the air supply and use a hammer and punch. Push the driver up and past the jammed fastener by applying the punch to the tip of the driver protruding from the shot channel and striking the punch with the hammer.  

NOTE: Only strike the driver, as this is the hardest part.  It is also the only moving part in this area. If you hit the jammed fastener, you can increase the tension. Smaller tools, such as staplers, upright nailers and pin nailers, may need to be partially disassembled to release the jam. 

Probably not. The problem is the air volume, not the pressure. If a tool is operated at high speed, constrictions in the air line lead to a drop in pressure. The pressure loss reduces the driving power, so that the fasteners are driven in in steps.  This means that the first fastener is driven in all the way - but the next one sits slightly higher and the one after that even higher.

Make sure that you are using the correct compressed air lines. Air supply hoses should have a minimum working pressure of 10 bar (150 psi) or 150 percent of the maximum pressure generated in the air supply system, whichever is higher.  A high quality air pressure hose with an inside diameter of at least 5/16" should be used. Air hoses should always be kept as short as possible. A filter, regulator and lubricator should always be included in the air system for proper operation.

A filter prevents excessive tool wear and corrosion by trapping pipe scale, dirt, solidified lubricants, oil, moisture and other components.  Removing moisture prevents the air ducts from freezing at low temperatures. The regulator is the most important requirement for proper operation of the tool and the correct air pressure for the job at hand. If the tool is operated at too high a pressure, its wear will increase significantly. If the tool is operated at too low a pressure, it will not perform satisfactorily.

High performance lubricants applied at the factory and/or as part of routine maintenance cannot be expected to remain in the tool indefinitely. A line lubrication system that injects an oil mist into the air supply is therefore essential.  

Check connections and air lines for damage.  Even smaller compressors can withstand an output of 10 to 15 nails before the pressure drops so much that the driving force is impaired. Impairments can include moisture, ice, dirt buildup or even connectors and air lines that are too small to meet the volume requirements of the tool. 

Yes, if you reduce the air pressure to flatten the countersink of the nail, this will lead to irregular results. Basically, if the pressure is so low that the nailer is not driving the nail too deep, it is not filled with enough air to work properly; it will misfire or start working erratically. The best solution to this problem is some sort of depth control that can be used at normal air pressures. This depth control is usually an adjustment feature on the outside of the tool. Most tools sold today are equipped with this feature. Contact FASCO (fasco@beck-fastening.com) and provide the model number of your tool to find out if a depth control accessory is available. 

The minimum and maximum values can be found in the operating and maintenance manual. The maximum values are also indicated on the outside of the tool for safety reasons. However, to achieve the best results and extend the life of your tools, you should only ever use the minimum pressure required to drive the fastener in properly. The amount of pressure required depends greatly on the density of the material to be fastened and the length of the fastener.

Water in the tools is a direct result of natural condensation that accumulates in the compressor tanks and air hoses over time. Compressor tanks and air hoses should be emptied daily to ensure optimum performance, and even more frequently in cold or very humid conditions.

No. Water in the compressor tanks and hoses is the result of natural condensation, which can eventually lead to pooling. The extent of such water accumulation can vary greatly depending on the working conditions, especially in high humidity or low temperatures.

In humid conditions, the moist air flows through the pump and the water slowly collects on the bottom of the containers.  The biggest problem is low temperatures. Cold air is sucked in and heated by a very hot pump. This hot air is then pumped through hundreds of meters of very cold hoses until it reaches the tools. As a result, there is excessive condensation in the hoses, which is passed through the hose and condenses in the compressed air appliances.

During downtimes of the compressed air devices, the water collects in the lower areas of the hose and freezes, severely restricting the air flow and paralyzing the tools. Water vapors that have made it to the compressed air unit freeze in the pressure valves and cause sluggish operation. Under such conditions, the compressor tanks and hoses should be emptied several times a day.

It is best to use a blow-out nozzle. This is a tool commonly used with air hoses to blow dust from equipment and tools; it allows free airflow as soon as the trigger is pulled. To remove water, make sure the compressor is higher than the hose by placing it on sawhorses or a workbench. The hoses should be unrolled; if possible, run them in a downward direction so that the discharge nozzle attached to the end of the hose is at the lowest point.

With the compressor connected, turn on the switch and make sure that the compressor is pumping at maximum pressure. Leave the compressor switch on and open the air outlet nozzle by pulling the trigger and allowing the air to flow freely. Make sure that the discharge nozzle is directed away from anyone in the vicinity and also away from any objects that you do not want to contaminate. If there is a lot of water, it may spray excessively with the first air stream; sand, rust or oil particles in the hose may also come out.  

Continue the blow-out process until you are sure that all excess moisture has been removed from the hose. This procedure is especially important if the hose is stored outside at low temperatures or is not used in cold weather; accumulated water will freeze solid, causing significant delays in morning start-up. 

All compressors have drain valves at the bottom of the air tanks.  These are used both to relieve pressure at the end of work and to drain water that has formed as a result of normal condensation. Allow the compressor to run until maximum pressure is generated and then shut down automatically. Under normal conditions, you can then switch off the compressor and open the drain valves. The escaping air pressure will carry excess water out of the tanks (note: open the valves outdoors as rust and oil deposits will be thrown out with them, which may stain floors or carpets). In extreme cases, if a lot of water has accumulated, leave the compressor switched on so that it starts up and continues to pump pressure until the water stops draining. You can then switch the compressor off.

If pneumatic nailers and staplers become stiff in cold weather, this is almost always due to moisture/water in the tools, which can lead to icing, especially in the area of the pressure valve. Outside temperatures of up to 0° Celsius can lead to icing in the appliance heads during high-speed operation.

Winter lubricants" are commercially available. These lubricants should only be used in the colder months as a replacement for the usual lubricants. These lubricants act like antifreeze inside the nailer. Some of them should not even be used in the air lines; they should be added directly to the air tool at the air connection, in the same quantity as normal lubricating oil.

Liquids for drying air or fuel lines are not recommended. Most of these commercially available liquids can cause damage to the seals and bumpers of pneumatic nailers or clamps. Anything that gets into the air lines will eventually get into the air tools and can cause costly damage.

The entire air pressure in the hoses is controlled by the pressure regulator. On new compressors, the regulator may be shut off similar to a faucet. To set the regulator to the desired pressure for your tool, turn the knob (usually red) clockwise to open it and increase the pressure level. You should be able to read the increase in pressure on the gauge attached to the knob. On some models, the knob must be pulled slightly upwards to unlock it for adjustment. When the desired pressure is reached, push the knob back down to lock it so that it does not adjust itself due to the normal vibrations of the compressor. If adjusting the pressure regulator does not solve the problem, the regulator is defective and must be replaced.

This depends on how much air your tool uses with each shot. Small staplers need 0.4 liters per shot at 6 bar (90 psi), while large nailers need more than 2 liters. Of course, the working speed should also be taken into account. As a rule, a 25-liter compressor should be chosen for small tools and a 50-liter compressor for large nailers.

Another important aspect of a compressor is the power (HP). If the compressor has a large air tank but is equipped with a small motor, it will have to run most of the time to reach the pressure level. A powerful compressor, on the other hand, needs less time to refill the tank.

The typical commercial-size staplers, pin and tack nailers used in the furniture industry can be lubricated once or twice a day with just 2-3 drops of detergent-free oil of weight class 10 - unless a "lubricator" is already in use.  The oil drops are applied via the handle of the tool where the bushing coupling (air inlet) is located. As a rule of thumb, it is recommended that an O-ring is overhauled every six months as part of preventive maintenance.

While lubrication is essential, WRONG LUBRICATION will do more damage to the tool than no lubrication at all. Examples of incorrectly selected lubricants are Marvel Mystery Oil (smells like Ben-Gay), transmission fluid (smells sweet), WD 40 and air tool oils designed for rotary vane, automotive and air impact tools. These WRONG oils are often of the wrong viscosity and/or contain detergents with additives that can swell, dry out and break O-rings. They can also wash out the factory-applied grease lubrication that is beneficial to the tool. A correctly lubricated tool can be recognized by a very fine film of oil around the outlet area. The lubrication inside should be colorless.

ET&F® pins are recognized by the ICC Evaluation Service, Inc., IAPMO UES Evaluation Service, and several local or regional agencies. See ICC Reports ESR-1777, ESR-1844, ESR-2290 and IAPMO Report ER-335 for details. Most local jurisdictions recognize these reports, but this needs to be verified by the responsible design professional on a specific project. ET&F® pins also have been recognized in reports from the Florida Building Product Commission. Contact us for to obtain copies of these reports.

On a one-to-one basis, screws usually offer greater holding strength than pins when withdrawal strength is measured.  This may not be true when pull over strength is compared, due to similar head diameters of the two fasteners.  However, for most applications, the installation of a few more pins than screws, allows the assembly made with pins to carry the same loads as an assembly built with screws. Installing more pins than screws can be easily justified due to significantly reduced labor to install pins.

Probably not. Screws and pins are different types of fasteners and have different allowable design values. Before making a change, we suggest a request for substitution be submitted to the responsible design professional. Using our code approved allowable load tables and the design loads on the project, the correct pin spacing can be calculated. ET&F Fastening Systems can provide submittal packages with a Request For Substitution form and design information to you for this process.

Yes, our AKN-100 series or AGS-100 series pins can be used to attach plywood panels to corrugated metal roof deck 22ga to 14ga thickness, subject to the design values shown IAPMO Report ER-335. Refer to Table 3 of the report for nominal withdrawal values for various combinations of plywood thickness and steel gauge. Although this table specifically refers to steel framing, the design values are also appropriate for use in comparable gauges of steel decking.

Using the allowable withdrawal values shown in this table and wind uplift loads for a specific project, the actual pin spacing can be calculated by the design professional. Select pins long enough to penetrate the valley of the corrugation. If pins are sized to only penetrate though the plywood and top of the corrugation, and the installer misplaces the pin and misses the top of the corrugation, the pin will not penetrate the steel as required.

Prior to finalizing the design, check if there is a requirement for the plywood to resist diaphragm shear load and if Factory Mutual Approval is required for fasteners used to attach the plywood deck.

Also confirm that fastener spacing provides adequate strength to meet APA minimum requirements for plywood panel installation to prevent panel buckling.

No. The maximum spacing of fasteners for plywood attachment should be 6 on center at supported edges and 12 on center at intermediate supports. Be sure to confirm maximum uplift values do not exceed allowable pin pullout values published in IAPMO ER-335. Also see the IAPMO and ICC Reports for horizontal diaphragm and shear wall values respectively.

A single flat strap, screwed to the stud, on the side of the stud to which the plywood is to be fastened can be used. The strap must be of the same gauge as the stud. It is not necessary to use a full section of stud or a second strap on the backside of the stud as blocking. A single strap is sufficient to provide the allowable shear values as shown in IAPMO ER-335 and ICC ESR-1777 for blocked diaphragms and shear walls. See applicable code for specific requirements.

The complete referenced ASTM standards are Standard C954, Standard Specifications for Steel Drill Screws for the Application of Gypsum Panel Products and ASTM C1002, Standard Specification for Self-Piercing Tapping Screws. These ASTM standards for screws specify such attributes as metallurgy, dimensions (e.g. head recess, major thread diameter), performance requirements (e.g. spin out/backout), and test methods (e.g. drill speed in rpm, driving pressure) SAE J78, Standard Specification for Self-Drill Tapping Screws specifies similar screw qualities. Our fasteners are not screws, are not installed by screws guns and as such, require a different metallurgy and heat treatment, do not have recessed heads for various drive styles, and do not utilize standard thread forms.

Our fasteners do however have ICC and IAPMO recognition for installing plywood, exterior gypsum sheathing, and DensGlass brands of sheathing to light gauge steel studs. Utilizing the design data published in ICC ES Reports ESR-1777 and IAPMO ER-335 in most cases, a project originally designed for screws can be redesigned utilizing pins.

Consider the installed cost of the fasteners. ET&F® pins can be installed at rates 5 to 10 times faster than screws. The labor savings costs more than offsets the higher material costs. ET&F offers a worksheet which allows you to calculate the cost savings of pins based on your specific labor rates. Contact ET&F Fastening Systems for a copy of this form.

We recommend that all ET&F® tools be used with 3/8 fittings. The tools may perform fine in 20 ga and 18 ga steel (Models 500A, 500M, 510A) or in low strength concrete (Aerico® 90) with 1/4 fittings. But, when more power is needed for thicker steel or higher strength concrete, 3/8 fittings are necessary.

No, it is not recommended. The large barrel of the Model 510A tool will allow the headed AKN-100 pins to drift as they are driven. This may cause the pins to not drive straight, particularly in the heavier gauges of steel. Only AGS-100 series pins are recommended for use in the Model 510A tool.

ET&F^® products are sold through independent distributors throughout the United States and Canada. Contact us at etf@beck-fastening.com for a list of distributors in your area.

Terms of warranties vary by manufacture, and may or may not be effected by substrate attachment or the type of fastener. For example, manufactures of EIFS wall systems, exclude the substrate attachment from the scope of their work, so the substrate attachment is usually not in their warranty. Manufactures of other materials such as Georgia Pacifics DensGlass®, and James Hardies fiber cement siding do address fasteners in their warranty and do offer their standard warranties when ET&F® pins are used. The supplier providing the warranty for the project should be contacted directly for terms of their warranty.